the world is my oyster

 And a freshly shucked Coffin Bay oyster at that.

On a night when I was supposed to be at a meeting, but the meeting didn’t happen, I suddenly found myself with a free evening stretching out in front of me.

When the possibilities are endless, it is best to consult a friend and just allow yourself to be guided.

And so it was that I found myself ringing the bell at the black door on Flinders Lane, over a year after the first thwarted attempt. This first attempt involving romantic intentions, a lost bag, subsequent credit card cancelling, tears and a detour on the evening. It is always a good idea to rectify regrets.

If you can.

Feeling akin to a vampire waiting to be asked in, I rang the doorbell and an immaculately dressed waiter invited me in to what I now know is called Hihou, or hidden treasure, aka the Black Door.
From the first moment, despite the bunker-like decor, I felt welcome. Actually, this is the kind of bunker you would want to find yourself in if ever there was a need to be in a bunker. A well stocked wine cellar and liquor supply, beautiful food, hot towels and lovely people.
And now back to the oysters.

Briny and sweet at the same time. A plump and delicious accompaniment to the Wabi Sabi cocktail I chose, largely perhaps, because of its name. Also because it has Brooklyn gin (I have a particular penchant for Brooklyn), apple liqueur, apple and mango, tonic and wasabi. Refreshingly crisp, deceptively light with a slight sparkle and a cunning afternote of heat from the wasabi, I was happy to have been seduced by the name.

Next was the exotic sounding ‘Cuban’ Spicy Tuna Cigar. Finely minced tuna mixture inside a crispy wafer shell with a soupçon of wasabi to finish.

 

Having reached the end of the Wabi Sabi, I decided I needed to become better acquainted with sake. Hihou has a range of warm and cool sake. I let the bartender decide for me and he advised the cool and subtle takaisami.


With its slightly apple tones, which seems to have become a theme of my beverage choice for the evening, the takaisami was an excellent companion to my two remaining tastes, the steamed vegetarian gyoza with ponzu sauce and the eel and tofu croquette with tonkatsu sauce.

The croquette was by far the stand-out taste of the evening. Crunchy outer shell with a beautifully smoky textured filling. And the sauce. The tonkatsu sauce was a revelation. A savoury sweet mix of tomato, prunes, dates, apples, lemons, carrots, onion and celery, I wanted to lick the plate clean.

As the last rays of sun dropped below the treeline of the Treasury Gardens opposite, and the complimentary warm plum wine, offered perhaps because I was alone in one of Melbourne’s most romantic bars, took hold, I felt as though I had been part of a secret. But it is a secret I don’t want to keep to myself.

Find someone sweet and take them to the corner of Flinders Lane and Spring Street, ring the bell and allow loveliness to take over.


There’s a certain headiness that comes with the first days of spring

New beginnings, optimism, possibility. The fragrance of change is in the air.  No matter that there are still cold days ahead, we note the change and walk towards the light.
We feel happier.
But what is happiness? Is it a biological response? Is it a state of mind? Is it an emotion? Don’t worry, be happy is all well and good, but what if we are really worried. Or depressed. Or it’s the middle of winter?
And are all these questions only prevalent in a first world society? If we are worried about survival, is there room to ponder happiness and our access to it?
The United States Declaration of Independence declared life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness to be an unalienable right. But I’m fairly certain that the Democratic Republic of Congo does not have such a statement.
Happiness is listed as one of the basic emotions, according to American psychologist and pioneer in the study of emotions, Dr Paul Ekman. The others are anger, disgust, fear, surprise and sadness. Through his research, he discovered that these emotions were the ones which appeared to be instantly recognised even in pre-literate cultures who had not had access to learned facial expressions through the media.
Ekman is of course not the first to explore the concept of emotion. The Greek stoic, mathematician, philosopher, astronomer, politician and generally busy man, Posidinius was hanging out in Rhodes around 135-51 BC observing both people and environment and coming up with some observational reflections. Most of his works are now lost with only fragments remaining but many of his theories about the effect of the climate on peoples’ mood and character were the antecedent of much of our modern thought around seasonal mood disorder and the emotional impact of weather.
He was the first Stoic to depart from the orthodox doctrine that passions were faulty judgments and posit that Plato’s view of the soul had been correct, namely that passions were inherent in human nature. In addition to the rational faculties, Posidonius taught that the human soul had faculties that were spirited (anger, desires for power, possessions, etc.) and desiderative (desires for sex and food). Ethics was the problem of how to deal with these passions and restore reason as the dominant faculty.
The problem, and it is unfortunate that it IS a problem, is that everyone wants to be happy but not everyone is able to achieve happiness. This is seen as a lack or a fault which then makes happiness even further off. Numerous are those who peddle books and motivational TED talks on happiness and its merits. And I don’t have anything against these people. It does seem strange though that we need to be told and then have to learn how to cultivate a basic human emotion. How did we get to the point where happiness was so elusive?

I’m not about to join the crowd of happiness-mongers but I do just want to say, the moment I let go and just allow…allow the fragrance of the daffodils in the vase on my table to intoxicate me, allow the warmth of the sun to soak through my closed eyelids and fill me with goldenness, allow for possibility and awe and wonder and delight…then I feel a deep sense of happiness. And I am lucky that I live somewhere where I can just allow this feeling to envelop me. I can embrace it and walk towards the light.

What a wonderful world

Sometimes a flavour takes you by surprise

It might be because you have never encountered it before or perhaps it is made with familiar ingredients, but you hadn’t thought of putting them together in just that way.
Zucchini sauce for tacos. Who knew?
I’m picking maybe 119, 713, 203 Mexicans. Maybe not all of them.
I had tasted the aforementioned zucchini sauce over a year ago when I tagged along to a bbq made up of Mexican and Irish people. The crowd composition was intriguing for a start. I was one of two New Zealanders, there was an Australian, and then everyone else was either from Mexico or Ireland. I have thought a lot since then about what the attracting force might be between these two cultures. I still have not come up with an answer.
Anyway. The food was fantastic. Beautifully grilled meat, salads, tacos. But the star was the zucchini sauce. With the slight earthiness of the zucchini tempered by a little garlic and a little chilli. Smooth, a little spicy, good.
I tried to recreate it at home. It was a dismal failure. Perhaps one of my worst dismal failures. And then I forgot about it.
Until now. Now I have seen how it’s made. And I have had another attempt. I don’t quite have the deft confidence of my instructor or the seemingly innate knowledge of the amount of oil required, the exact size of stock cube to include and the extent to which the zucchini must be cooked; not too much, not too little, but just right. But I did it. And it’s good.
And I appreciate the discovery.

I laugh, I cry, I seldom understand things but it is more and more a sort of comfort

Perspective. It has a lot going for it.

How we see things, or more importantly, how we choose to see things can depend on a lot. I wonder, perhaps, if it’s about training ourselves to look for the good and not be bowled over by the negative.

I like to think I am optimistic, a seeker of possibility, a practitioner of wonder and awe, but sometimes I have a habit of noticing and dwelling on the one dark cloud I see in an otherwise blue sky. Maybe it’s when I am tired. Or already a little emotional for whatever reason. The scales tip in favour of the half empty glass.

Last night I went to the fifth Dinner Project. I have been to three of them. I have written about it here before.  The Dinner Project is an Australian not-for-profit venture raising money for charities through dinners created by chefs who donate their time, energy and innovation for the greater good. Chef, Thi Li started the Project in Sydney, brought it to Melbourne and has been very ably assisted here by pastry chef, Kimberly Chin. 

Last night’s dinner showcased chefs from Luxembourg, The European, RACV Club, Stokehouse and Cutler & Co and was held at B’Stilla in South Yarra. Four courses offering fish, meat, heirloom vegetables, a variety of textures, colours and flavours with beautiful beverages to match.  

All profits are going to SANE Australia.  Thi and Kim both feel that that people who work in the hospitality industry are often subject to high stress levels and antisocial working hours which can lead to mental health problems and they would like to support a group that is working to improve mental health.
The reason I mention The Dinner Project, apart from the obvious fact that Thi and Kim see life from a different perspective and seek to use their talent and experience to bring goodness to others, is that I ate a dish which blew me away. And this dish was the result of a mistake. 
Mark Glenn from The European roasted heirloom carrots over coffee beans to give them a woody, toasted flavour. He experimented with a blueberry sauce which didn’t quite go the way he expected, but in fact turned out better than his original idea. His carrot, shitake, jerusalem artichoke, coffee and grain dish was the entrée. For me it was the stand-out dish of the night. And he was competing with a blue eye cod and prawn boudin, a bavette with charred radicchio and fennel and a rhubarb cake, ginger soil, ginger custard and creme fraîche sorbet.

Sometimes the wrong train takes you to the right destination and a step backwards, well that’s the first step in a cha cha.

 

downsizing

I am currently downsizing my life.
This has caused concern amongst my friends. Is everything alright? Am I ok? What’s going on?
By downsizing, I mean that I am moving into a smaller, brand new and more reasonably priced apartment that I feel will suit the next chapter of my life. As a consequence, I am reducing the amount of things I own.
And I love it.
I have enjoyed all the items of furniture and clothes and shoes and other miscellaneous goods that have been part of my life for various lengths of time. They have provided the backdrop, setting, and costuming for some of my previous chapters.
And I am also enjoying not having as many things. It feels simpler. The people who have bought my various items or to whom they have been donated will also enjoy these pieces. It’s their turn now. I have had mine.
Perhaps spending ten days on an 11-metre sailboat has shown me how possible, and in fact, liberating it is to live in a smaller space without lots of furniture and things. It’s the people you get to spend time with in your space or in theirs and the ideas you think about and the possibilities you see and the lessons you learn. These are the things that matter. A big wooden workbench is lovely and looked good in my various homes, but we have had our time together.
Things are all well and good and I am not about to stop shaving my legs, throw away my deodorant and wave my arms around wildly trying to convince you to follow me in some sort of crusade against consumerism. (And I don’t mean anything against those who don’t shave their legs…)
Not at all. And that really isn’t the point.
Right now. For me, letting go of some things to embrace a new perspective and experience feels good. It feels a little as though I am clearing the way for something, allowing it to unfold. I am not quite sure what that something looks like, but I know that it will come. 

Sunshine

Today I went to Sunshine.

Having expressed a desire to know more about Vietnamese food and cooking, I was lucky enough to be invited to be part of a Vietnamese family’s preparation for a birthday lunch.

Tom Yum soup paste made from scratch, barbecued seafood, sweet potato glass noodles, and a lot of leafy greens and chewy mushrooms.

The extended family stretches to at least 20 people and I was told that with that many people, there is always a birthday. This is a good thing. Having spent the morning watching and inhaling and tasting and chatting and learning, I had to leave before lunch was actually served. This lovely family, horrified that I would miss out, have invited me to go back in two weeks for another birthday lunch and this time, I must stay for the day.

love

I am thinking about love.
 
Why, you might ask? Well let me tell you.
I have just been reading the results of leading online wine retailer Vinomofo’s inaugural Great Wine Census. Australian consumers’ purchasing, cellaring, drinking  and faking it habits, revealed.
Apparently what we all imagined to be true, is. Australia is, indeed, a nation of wine-lovers. 26% of the 6000 surveyed, cited it as one of their greatest obsessions.
But, and here’s the bit that got me thinking…despite their love of wine, 64% of Australians feel intimidated by restaurant wine lists and 47% feel nervous making a choice in a wine store. That’s a lot of anxiety. 31% confessed to having faked wine knowledge to impress someone and 6% refilled an expensive bottle of wine with a cheaper one. 
Just read the last part of that sentence again. I’ll do it for you: 6% refilled an expensive bottle of wine with a cheaper one. That’s 360 people passing off cheap wine as expensive. 
Wow.
But back to the love aspect. It made me sad to think that something that engenders love can also produce such anxiety and feelings of not being good enough. 
And yet this is so often the case. The things and people we aspire to, look up to, feel impressed by and love, can sometimes be the things which make us the most nervous. We want to be valued and loved and we feel afraid that we don’t know the right way to make that happen and that simply being ourselves just might not be good enough. 

It should be ok to say that we don’t know. To say what we like and don’t like and to ask for some help.

And with the right person, or wine shop or sommelier, it is.


sweet as

Pierre Roelofs is a chef.
Originally from New Zealand, although his name and accent do not give that away, Pierre’s name has become synonymous with deconstructed dessert fantasies.
In a career which has seen him work through a three year apprenticeship in the Swiss Alps, work in Michelin starred restaurants in England and Spain and pretty much everything in between, it seems incongruous to find an international class chef producing sophisticated innovation in the humble context of a little 25 seater cafe off Fitzroy street every Thursday night.
Friendly and open, Pierre eschews the molecular gastronomy label, but having spent time at the Fat Duck in England with Heston Blumenthal, there’s more than a nod to some of the science-meets-magic flair that Blumenthal has become known for. 
But this is no circus. Elegant and ethereal are the words which come to mind as the dessert tube and then three ‘courses’ are presented to me.
I do not have a sweet tooth. I see the Life is short, just eat dessert t-shirts, I watch the American tv depression cure of huge tubs of ice cream, I read that Graham Kerr, whoever he is, said, “I prefer to regard a dessert as I would imagine the perfect woman: subtle, a little bittersweet, not blowsy and extrovert. Delicately made up, not highly rouged. Holding back, not exposing everything and, of course, with a flavour that lasts.” I get it. People love dessert.
I don’t.
So. A dessert dégustation. It felt as though I was entering a marathon. I really did have a feeling of dread at the sugary path that lay ahead of me. Clearly Pierre Roelof is a genius. Obviously what he does with sugar and various other specially chosen ingredients is high gastronomic art. But I knew it would be too much for me.
So. Last night I went to Cafe Rosamond at 191 Smith Street, but really on Charles Street, just off Smith Street. As I entered the small, woody restaurant, sugary, vanilla-scented warmth enveloped me. It was cosy, given the icy climes outside.
The wait staff were also warm. I felt welcomed and looked after.
First up, the signature dessert tube. This month the glass tube was filled with a deconstructed oreo cookie. The idea is that you loosen the tube in warm water for 3 seconds then suck. Suck until your mouth is filled with vanilla gel, chocolate cookie and chocolate mousse. Rich, chocolaty and also light. One inhalation and it’s gone.

 
Next, is a lemon gel, crème and crumble with carrot and coconut gel, carrot squares, roasted peanuts and peanut cake. Salty, sweet, tart and smooth. All at once. A tiny sculptured piece with dollops of gel and squares of substance.
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I am not sure this was the case last night. The second offering was substantial and contained a lot which I would have called traditional. Incredible flavours and textures, but there was a lot there. I enjoyed the contrast of the salty toasted oats against the vanilla foam and vanilla ice cream with marmalade jelly and spice orange and brown sugar crumble but it did overwhelm me.

To finish, a tiny architectural feat on a large white plate. Salted chocolate parfait, chocolate sponge crumbs, chocolate and ginger crème, ginger meringue, candied ginger, freeze dried raspberries and raspberry wafer. So much in such a small space. The raspberry wafer offered a flavour explosion of tart crispness, the ginger meringue melted immediately on the tongue. Velvety chocolate mousse was offset by spicy ginger pieces and the chocolate sponge earthed the whole dish. 

Having achieved a sugar coma, I floated back down Smith Street and somehow got home.
Pierre Roelof is a very clever chef. And I am still full of sugar.

Orleans

When you are 12, 358 kilometres from the birthplace of the food you are eating, it pays to go with an expert. And I am lucky that I could.

Orleans bar and restaurant in Auckland’s Britomart offers an ambient soupcon of Louisiana style. As much as it can, from so far away.

First up, a jug of big, easy punch. I wouldn’t have chosen this from looking at the menu, but as I say, when you go with one who knows, whole worlds are opened. This icy jug of Damson vodka mixed with blackberries, lemon juice, mint and Root Beer transported me from the chilly Auckland evening to a much headier time and place in the southern states.

Now Root Beer is a fairly specific taste. And a fairly specific primary ingredient, that being the root of the sassafras tree. My first thought was wintergreen, and I have just discovered that I wasn’t wrong in that sensory conclusion. Most commercial root beers have replaced sassafras extract with methyl salicylate, the chemical compound found in wintergreen. Interesting.

And refreshing alongside the slight tartness of the lemon juice, the warmth of the vodka, the freshness of the mint and the burgeoning serving of blackberries resting on top. I liked it.

Next came the decision about food. Orleans offers various options. Small bowls; their obvious counterpart, big bowls; po boys and side bowls.

We went for a small bowl and two big bowls and that was plenty, both in terms of flavour and satiety.

I wanted the Nola BBQ shrimp for two reasons. One, BBQ shrimp just sounds cajun/creole to me. Two, I’m reading a book which features a girl called Nola. Ah, the subtle power of the written word. Nice touch with the presentation, a basket with a fictional June 19th newspaper page and the beady eyes of the prawns just asking for fingers to get dirty with the peeling and extracting of slightly spicy and very buttery flesh. Food interaction is good interaction. Textures and tastes a symbiotic entwining.

(Now I realise that I headed down a fairly verbose line there. Basically, I like having to work for the food and the shrimp was delicious.)

Next was the Big Easy Gumbo, which made two Big Easy choices in our evening. I am guessing that you may well be more enlightened than I, but I have only just learned that The Big Easy is a nickname for New Orleans, and possibly a reference by musicians in the 1900s to the relative ease of finding work there, as well as describing the slower, more carefree nature of the city when compared to larger cities like New York. Perhaps if I had been more assiduous in my cinematic education and had watched the 1986 crime thriller, The Big Easy, I would have discovered this fact much earlier. Learning. Every day.

Back to the Gumbo. Chicken, Andouille, clams, shrimp, soft shell crab. Traditionally gumbo has a strong flavoured stock, meat or shellfish and vegetables. Sometimes rice is added, as in this case. Gumbo is a hearty, fragrant stew originally made from leftover meat or shellfish, some stock and some rice. AN economical and filling meal. The Big Easy Gumbo was a little more fancy pants than that. Tasty and certainly comprising the elements and feel of a gumbo. But having had gumbo cooked by the aforementioned expert, I can’t say that Orleans provided the best example I have had.

And lastly the sticky pork ribs with BBQ sauce. And I don’t have a photo of these as once they were placed on the table, the tactile eater in me couldn’t wait to get my hands on and my mouth around the smoky, succulent meat. Just picture ribs. On a board. Being very tasty.

No room for an aptly named Sweet Bowl, but if we had wanted a sweet finish, there is a variety of cheesecake, cookie sandwich, butterscotch pot, maple bread pudding or sweet pie offerings.

And just to leave you with a thought from the creole world, there is a proverb rom that part of the world that goes something along the lines of bon temps fait crapaud manqué bounda, which, if you haven’t been learning creole on your Duolingo iPhone app means: ‘idleness leaves the frog without buttocks’. Which has nothing to do with anything, but it’s making you think, isn’t it?